Exploring Hawaii's Big Island volcanoes and valleys

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(Lonely Planet) — The youngest of Hawaii's main islands -- and it's still growing, with over 500 acres of new land added over the last 30 years -- the Big Island of Hawai'i overflows with outdoor adventures. Here you can hike to the edge of the world's longest-running volcanic eruption, then climb Hawaii's two tallest peaks.

Dropping back down to earth, trek into forested valleys harboring ancient heiau (Hawaiian temples) and wild beaches where you can camp by the surf in the silvery moonlight.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Start by going straight to the heart of the Big Island's live lava action: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Here Kilauea Caldera has been spewing lava since 1983. During just the last few years, Halemau'mau Crater has once again become a roiling lake of fire. Traditionally believed to be the home of Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of fire and volcanoes, Halemau'mau Crater looks especially hellish after dark.

Wait, isn't all this volcanic activity dangerous? Not exactly. Hawaiian shield volcanoes rarely erupt with fountains of fire, but instead send out lava flows that ooze above ground or in underground tubes with glowing skylights. When those flows reach the ocean, they send up huge plumes of steam that billow like clouds during the day and glow ghoulishly at night.

Depending on current volcanic activity, you may be able to hike to within view of the lava flow, either inside the park or at county-run Kalapana viewing area; call +1 (808) 961-8093 for up-to-date information.

If you want to set foot on older, more stable but still steaming lava flows, as seen in the alien landscapes of the 2001 Hollywood remake of "Planet of the Apes," follow the park's 4-mile Kilauea Iki Trail, which descends from the volcanic crater rim and traipses over jet-back lava flows, which are slowly being recolonized by native plants, and through birdsong-filled rain forest kipuka (oases) spared Pele's wrath.

Mauna Loa

In a far-flung corner of Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park, Mauna Loa ("Long Mountain" in Hawaiian), the most massive volcano in Hawaii, stands watch. If you're a peak-bagger, the 19-mile trek to its summit is a worthy challenge.

Intense sun exposure, white-out fog and the risks of hypothermia and altitude sickness don't deter ambitious, physically fit climbers from this multi-day ascent over a moonscape of volcanic lava flows to Manua Loa's otherworldly summit caldera.

Day hikers who want to take the shortcut use the Mauna Loa Observatory Trail, another strenuous and breathtakingly high trail (13 miles round-trip) that starts off Saddle Rd outside the park. It's a steep, unearthly beautiful climb through rainbow-colored volcanic cinders to Mauna Loa's windy, exposed summit.

Get an early start (before 8 a.m.) and check the weather forecast before setting out. The observatory access road is rough and mostly unpaved; a 4WD vehicle is helpful. Note most rental-car companies prohibit driving on unpaved roads, even in Jeeps.

Mauna Kea

Mauna Kea is the...


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