Hawaii attractions for beach haters

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(<a href="http://www.lonelyplanet.com/?cnn=yes" target="_blank">Lonely Planet</a>) — What's the first thing you think of when you think of Hawaii? The foaming-white sea lapping at a golden-sand beach surrounded by palm trees swaying in the breeze? Well, sure -- Hawaii's one of the world's ultimate beach destinations, an island paradise made for basking in the sun sipping daiquiris or hitting the waves to surf some righteous tubes.

But what to do if you're one of those people who just can't stand beaches? (Scorching sunburn, salt in your hair and sand everywhere!) If you're a beach hater, don't dismiss Hawaii just yet: there's plenty to do on the Hawaiian islands where you'll never have to step foot on sand. Here are some of our suggestions.

HAWAI'I (the Big Island)

This dormant volcano's peak is 4205 m (13,796 ft) above sea level -- the highest mountain in the state of Hawaii. (If you measure from its base underneath the Pacific, though, it's 10,000 m (33,000 ft) tall -- making it the tallest mountain on Earth.)

With such a clear vantage point, it's no wonder that its snowy summit is dotted with the greatest collection of astronomical telescopes in the world. The Onizuka Center here offers astronomy displays and nightly stargazing programs to the public.

Experienced mountaineers can even hike 12 miles to the summit through an otherworldly landscape of volcanic cinder cones and ancient archaeological sites.

If you'd prefer to see some live volcano action, head southeast to this unique national park, where Kilauea, the world's most active volcano, has been erupting continuously since 1983.

Outside the park boundaries, depending on conditions the day you visit, you may even be able to see fresh molten lava flowing into the sea (which is slowly but surely making the Big Island even bigger, year after year).

But even if the volcano goddess Pele isn't cooperating, there are still plenty of intriguing sights within the park's confines: hollowed-out lava tubes, steaming craters, tropical rainforest and old lava trails.

MAUI

The volcanic soil and sloped pastures of Mt Haleakala have sustained much of Maui's farming and livestock for the past two centuries, and the paniolo (cowboy) vibe is still strong in towns like rustic Makawao.

A drive through the plush pastures of the Kula region will take you past cattle ranches, vineyards with cellar-door sales, goat dairies and a huge lavender farm (with a cafe and gift shop offering lavender versions of just about any foodstuff or cosmetic product you can imagine -- and even those you can't).

If you keep driving you can follow a tortuously winding road up the flank of Mt Haleakala itself, up 3055 m (10,023 ft) to the summit, where you can explore the surreal, lunar-like landscape -- home to unique flora such as the ten-year-blooming Haleakala silversword, which grows nowhere else on Earth -- and stare down at clouds filling enormous volcanic craters below you.

If you can get up early (or stay up late) enough, book a...



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