(CNN) — Arriving at the Saxon Hotel requires a series of grand entrances: the imposing 20-foot gate through the high walls that separate the grounds from Johannesburg's suburban expanse; the meandering drive through the lush gardens; the foyer to the hotel with its enormous ostrich egg chandelier.
And for the foodies, a lift up in a private elevator to the dining room of one of the city's most exclusive restaurants.
The arrival of Luke Dale Roberts x The Saxon is a culinary win for Johannesburg.
There's the extensive wine cellar, the racial diversity of the diners and of course the food on the eight-course tasting menu. Plates arrive with artistically dished shrimp ceviche served under thinly shaved long-stem broccoli and lamb cooked on skewers inside two concrete pots that look like mortars without pestles.
But perhaps most remarkable is the tiny victory that the restaurant, which opened in May 2016, represents in Johannesburg's sibling rivalry with Cape Town.
Unfair competition
Johannesburg is the richest and biggest city in South Africa, but even residents who love it labor under the weight of relentless comparisons to its beautiful sibling on the coast.
Cafes in the Maboneng precinct are part of what's giving new energy to Johannesburg.
In certain respects, it's an unfair competition. No other city in the world can boast Cape Town's natural setting, at the confluence of two oceans and the iconic Table Mountain smack in the middle of the city. The surrounding winelands are filled with picturesque fields that host some of the finest dining in the country.
"In reality Joburg can never compete with Cape Town's incredible natural beauty, except perhaps for its brief jacaranda seasonal fling in spring when the older suburbs are covered in a haze of purple blooms," said Taitz.
"This is historically a mining town, founded on a hunger for gold, a magnet for adventurers and risk-takers, and while there may not be much of that shiny mineral wealth left, scratch the surface of this city and you'll find a richness of people and experiences. The place has an energy and a heartbeat not found in seaside towns."
Embracing the city's core
What's changed over the past decade is Johannesburg's willingness to embrace its essentially urban character. The city's reputation for crime has slowly eased, as police statistics now show the city is safer than Cape Town.
That reality has fueled a desire to return to streets and sidewalks, creating a new...
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